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  • Subject: The Tale of Taiwan's Aborigines
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  • Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 00:07:44 -0700
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The Tale of Taiwan's Aborigines

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Friday, June 1, 2001 | Print this story=20


The Tale of Taiwan's Aborigines=20
A court ruling and a new government have given hope to the island's =
dispossessed natives.=20


By HENRY CHU, Times Staff Writer


HUALIEN, Taiwan--A noisy cement factory sits on the land where T=
ien Min-jen grew up. He can see its towering bulk from where he lives now, =
and in its nonstop whir he hears the rumble of injustice.
For millenniums, the area has been home to Tien's ancestors, mem=
bers of the aboriginal Taroko tribe on Taiwan's verdant eastern coast. They=
raised their crops and their children and put down roots here long before =
Chinese settlers first arrived 400 years ago.
But Chinese expansion, at times brutally violent, crowded out in=
digenous people such as Tien. Assimilation wiped out whole tribes. In 1949,=
Chiang Kai-shek arrived after losing to Mao Tse-tung's Communists on the m=
ainland and soon nationalized the land in hopes of turning Taiwan into an i=
ndustrial power base from which to retake China. Thousands of natives were =
dispossessed.
'The government took the land for their own use and treated us l=
ike we were guests,' Tien said, his deeply tanned face creasing with anger.=
'We were born and bred on this land. It ought to be mine again.'
That may yet happen. In an unprecedented decision last summer, a=
Taiwanese court ruled that the property taken by the government and given =
to the Asia Cement Co. rightfully belongs to Tien, 48, and other Tarokos.
It was a major victory for the island's aboriginal population af=
ter decades of suppression, neglect and forced assimilation by the dominant=
ethnic Chinese society. In another promising development, moves by Taiwan'=
s new government have raised hopes that aborigines will be granted more aut=
onomy.
Even as the world lavishes praise on Taiwan's transformation fro=
m a single-party police state to a vibrant democracy, activists such as Tie=
n hope to expose one of the darker sides of the island's past: the shameful=
treatment of its native inhabitants.
Few aborigines remain to tell the tale--only about 390,000 membe=
rs of nine tribes, or less than 2% of Taiwan's population of 23 million.
Unemployment and poor health plague aboriginal communities. Moth=
er tongues are dying out. Time is short for the elderly, who maintain the s=
trongest ties to their traditional lands and cultures despite the Chinese i=
dentities the government imposed on them and their offspring.
Yet activists draw inspiration from the struggles of indigenous =
groups around the world, from Native Americans in the U.S. to the Maoris of=
New Zealand. The feeling of kinship may go beyond the metaphorical: Some a=
nthropologists believe that the Maoris and other South Pacific islanders, i=
ncluding the Polynesians in Hawaii, are descended from Taiwan's aborigines.
One of the aborigines' biggest international boosts occurred in =
the U.S. in 1996, when a traditional song of this island's Ami tribe was us=
ed to promote the Summer Olympics in Atlanta--a swooping, echoing melody th=
at sounds like a call from the mountainside.
All of Taiwan's nine recognized tribes are in fact mountain dwel=
lers. Their inaccessibility in the rugged hills of central and eastern Taiw=
an helped them survive when the indigenous peoples on the plains did not. A=
ll 10 plains tribes are virtually extinct through displacement and intermar=
riage with the Chinese.
The mountain clans want to stave off that fate and are resorting=
to the tools of Taiwan's fast-developing civil society to do so.
The lifting of martial law in 1987 opened the door to a vast arr=
ay of interest groups in Taiwan, from environmentalists to gay-rights advoc=
ates, who suddenly found that they could organize and agitate without being=
arrested and hauled off to jail.
Among aborigines, ethnic pride began to assert itself. For decad=
es, they had been taught to consider themselves Chinese, in line with Chian=
g's vision of Taiwan as a part of China; Chiang's ruling Nationalists calle=
d the 'mountain people' their comrades in arms.
The assimilation eroded many of the practices that had made indi=
genous cultures distinctive, from native dress to language. Many aborigines=
today are hardly distinguishable from ethnic, or Han, Chinese, except for =
darker complexions and different facial features in some cases. The gap bet=
ween indigenous and Chinese cultures has narrowed over four centuries of Ch=
inese settlement.
Under martial law, Mandarin Chinese was Taiwan's official langua=
ge; anyone caught speaking in an indigenous tongue or the local Taiwanese d=
ialect was punished. Aborigines were forced to adopt Chinese names, a polic=
y that many found humiliating.
Isak Afo reclaimed his birth name in 1994 and erased the Chinese=
impostor, Lin Shien-fong, from all his legal papers.
'My parents gave me this name, which shows my roots. It's an imp=
ortant cultural and personal symbol,' said Afo, a member of the Ami tribe, =
Taiwan's most populous, known for its matriarchal social structure and rich=
store of native songs.
Afo was among the first activists to coalesce around a common ra=
llying cry in the late 1980s: 'Return our land.' In 1988, indigenous groups=
marched on Taipei, the capital, demanding that the Nationalist government =
give back the land it had expropriated. Several more protests attracted tho=
usands of demonstrators.
'For aborigines, the land is life,' Afo declared. 'It's a common=
grievance people can unite under.'
In 1996, the government set up a Council of Aboriginal Affairs, =
which reports directly to Taiwan's president. The constitution now guarante=
es eight seats in the 280-member Legislative Yuan, or parliament, to aborig=
inal representatives to fight for their interests.
But real progress on the problems affecting native people has be=
en hard to come by.
Despite greater visibility of aborigines and even a brief wave o=
f 'aboriginal chic' sparked by pop singers such as A-Mei, a sultry tribal p=
rincess whose concerts draw huge crowds, public opinion toward native peopl=
e is often highly prejudiced.
Media outlets paint unflattering portraits of indigenous residen=
ts, with exaggerated accounts of alcoholism, criminality and child prostitu=
tion.
Activists, who acknowledge that such problems exist, say the sen=
sationalist coverage masks their underlying causes. Unemployment among abor=
igines, at 8%, is twice the national average. Jobs, when they can be found,=
are often among the least desirable and most dangerous, such as constructi=
on work. Less than 10% of aborigines have a college degree, compared with 3=
4% of the general population.
'The government says that the Republic of China [Taiwan] is one =
nation. But this does no good for aborigines because there's no justice and=
much poverty,' said Payen Talu, an aboriginal legislator. 'There's a lot o=
f discrimination, similar to the way whites treat blacks in the United Stat=
es.'
Political power remains a phantom. 'Our voters aren't really a t=
hreat and can't make much of an impact,' said Talu, whose cramped office is=
adorned with posters of elderly members of his tribe, the Atayal, sporting=
their distinctive facial tattoos.
Yet some of the blame for lack of progress lies closer to home, =
activists admit.
Factionalism has divided the tribes, with no single charismatic =
leader who has emerged to unite everyone. One activist recalls walking out =
of a meeting after participants spent an hour arguing over a motto for the =
group rather than discussing anything substantive.
Tribal differences are exacerbated at times by religious ones. D=
enominational conflicts have hampered efforts to keep a panaboriginal movem=
ent going among the indigenous, about 75% of whom are Christian, the result=
of missionary activity.
'If in 15 years we don't get together, entire tribes are going t=
o perish,' Talu warned. 'The sun will set on us.'
Recent events have shone a few rays of hope.
A historic shift in Taiwan's government last year has put in pla=
ce some top leaders regarded as more responsive to local concerns. The Demo=
cratic Progressive Party of President Chen Shui-bian was born on Taiwanese =
soil, unlike the long-ruling Nationalist Party, which was founded on mainla=
nd China.
As a presidential candidate, Chen was the only one to sign a 'tr=
eaty of peace and equality' with the nine tribes, promising to recognize th=
eir sovereignty, restore traditional homelands and reinstate the indigenous=
names of mountains, rivers and other natural landmarks.
'Over the last 400 years, [aborigines] have experienced mistreat=
ment and oppression at the hands of colonial regimes,' the compact said. 'B=
ut successive colonial rulers have yet to issue any form of apology or impl=
ement any measure of redress for the errors they committed.'
The government is set to launch an experiment in granting more a=
utonomy to aboriginal communities, starting with the Yami people, a communi=
ty of seafaring, expert fishers on Orchid island, a tiny dot on the map off=
Taiwan's southeastern coast.
Although details are still to be settled--with the help of exper=
ts from such countries as New Zealand and Canada, which have worked out the=
ir own legal arrangements with indigenous peoples--activists envision a sel=
f-contained area responsible for its own taxation, education and some socia=
l welfare programs.
This would make it easier to preserve native customs such as the=
coming-of-age rites of the Puyuma, the harvest prayers of the Bunun (sung =
in eight-part harmony), the colorful leather clothing of the Tsou and the d=
elicate stone- and wood-carving of the Paiwan.=20
Above all, greater autonomy for aborigines could help preserve i=
ndigenous languages, which are in danger of disappearing within a few gener=
ations. Fewer than half the people in each tribe can speak their mother ton=
gue. Among the young, many of whom leave for the cities in search of work a=
nd better opportunities, the proportion is even lower.
'This is a very perilous situation,' said Isqaqavut Yohani, the =
head of the Cabinet-level Council of Aboriginal Affairs and a member of the=
Bunun tribe. 'When you lose your mother tongue, you lose your culture. I l=
ike to say that your mother language is your ID card. If you say you're an =
aborigine but can't speak a word of the language, I won't believe you.'
His office is working with tribal elders to determine the bounda=
ries of their traditional lands. Estimates of the total area involved vary =
wildly, from 640,000 to 4.2 million acres. And drawing borders is not the o=
nly question.
'Say the aboriginal people occupied the central part of Taiwan,'=
Yohani said. 'All of Taiwan's water resources come from this area. Will th=
e government allow aborigines to control all the water resources? And the f=
orests and mines?'
Getting current occupants to relinquish the land is another head=
ache.
Here in Hualien, despite the court ruling awarding land rights t=
o the Taroko--a subgroup of the Atayal--the Asia Cement Co. refuses to move=
, insisting on further negotiations with the tribe and the government, whic=
h are in the works. The company maintains that the Tarokos gave up their ri=
ghts to the property and that it has the documents to prove it.
But Taroko activist Tien Chun-chou says the documents are forger=
ies.
Tien, 58, is Hualien's answer to Erin Brockovich. A beautician-t=
urned-legal crusader, Tien doggedly combed dusty archives and ignored threa=
ts of harm in her campaign against big business.
She got a lucky break one day when Asia Cement executives storme=
d out of a meeting, leaving behind a stack of papers.
As Tien started flipping through them, she discovered that they =
were the documents allegedly ceding the land to Asia Cement--and that they =
were riddled with irregularities.
Some were missing official seals. Others lacked dates. Even more=
fishy, the signatures of many former landowners who supposedly gave up the=
ir property were all in the same handwriting.
Tien (no relation to Tien Min-jen) went back and pulled the agre=
ements, one by one, from the files of the local government office. She took=
them to the alleged signatories and asked if they had signed. The answer w=
as always the same: no.
It took a year of digging, but her effort paid off with last sum=
mer's court order.
'I want the land of my forebears,' Tien said. 'That land is full=
of emotion. When I touch it, I can feel my ancestors' presence.'
But it's a frustrating wait for the judge's decision to come to =
fruition. Two months ago, a protest against the company turned violent when=
fed-up Taroko farmers broke through barriers and scuffled with company emp=
loyees in an attempt to plant seedlings on the disputed land.
The protesters included elderly aborigines who eagerly want to r=
eturn to their roots.
'Whenever I run into elderly aborigines, they ask, 'When will I =
get my land back?' and my heart breaks,' Tien said sadly. 'I can't say when=
they'll get it. A lot of old folks I know have died. But I think they're s=
till helping me from heaven. I believe that.'


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Copyright =A9 2001 Los Angeles Times
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com/rights/register.htm=20=20


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href=3D"[http://sports.latimes.com"](<http://sports.latimes.com"/>);>Sports</A><BR><A=20
href=3D"/news/comment/">Commentary</A><BR><A=20
href=3D"<http://www.latimes.com/class/2shop/menus/">;>Shoppi=
ng</A></B>=20
</SPAN></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD>
<TD width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#b2cbd2><IMG height=3D1 src=3D"/images=
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width=3D1></TD></TR>
<TR>
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width=3D280></TD>
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<TD width=3D"1%">&nbsp;</TD>
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<TD class=3DnSubTop vAlign=3Dtop align=3Dright bgColor=3D#fff0c3=
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colSpan=3D2><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica>Nation &amp;=20
World</FONT><BR><IMG height=3D2 src=3D"/images/empty.gif" width=
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border=3D0></TD>
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<TABLE>
<TBODY>
<TR>
<TD width=3D"1%"><IMG height=3D5 src=3D"/images/empty.gif"=
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width=3D5></TD>
<TD colSpan=3D2><B class=3Dnavheads>BREAKING NEWS</B></TD><=
/TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=3Dtop align=3Dmiddle width=3D"1%"><B=20
class=3Dnavheads>&#8226;</B></TD>
<TD class=3DnHeadline><A=20
href=3D"/wires/20010531/tCB00a3777.html">Top Reuters Head=
lines=20
-- Entertainment</A></TD>
<TD class=3DnHeadline width=3D"1%">&nbsp;</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=3Dtop align=3Dmiddle width=3D"1%"><B=20
class=3Dnavheads>&#8226;</B></TD>
<TD class=3DnHeadline><A=20
href=3D"/wires/20010531/tCB00a3776.html">Reuters Entertai=
nment=20
News Summary</A></TD>
<TD class=3DnHeadline width=3D"1%">&nbsp;</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=3Dtop align=3Dmiddle width=3D"1%"><B=20
class=3Dnavheads>&#8226;</B></TD>
<TD class=3DnHeadline><A=20
href=3D"/wires/20010531/tCB00a3961.html">Actor Cate Blanc=
hett=20
Expecting Baby This Year</A></TD>
<TD class=3DnHeadline width=3D"1%">&nbsp;</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD align=3Dright colSpan=3D3><B class=3Dnavheads><A=20
href=3D"/wires/more.htm">MORE</A><IMG height=3D5=20
src=3D"/images/empty.gif" width=3D25></B></TD></TR></TBOD=
Y></TABLE>
<TABLE>
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<TR>
<TD width=3D"1%"><IMG height=3D5 src=3D"/images/empty.gif"=
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width=3D5></TD>
<TD colSpan=3D2><B class=3Dnavheads>TOP TIMES STORIES</B></=
TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=3Dtop align=3Dmiddle width=3D"1%"><B=20
class=3Dnavheads>&#8226;</B></TD>
<TD class=3DnHeadline><A=20
href=3D"/news/nation/20010531/t000045515.html">Decline in=
Crime=20
Ending, FBI Says</A></TD>
<TD class=3DnHeadline width=3D"1%">&nbsp;</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=3Dtop align=3Dmiddle width=3D"1%"><B=20
class=3Dnavheads>&#8226;</B></TD>
<TD class=3DnHeadline><A=20
href=3D"/news/nation/20010531/t000045512.html">Poverty Se=
t=20
Volatile Stage for Race Riots in Britain</A></TD>
<TD class=3DnHeadline width=3D"1%">&nbsp;</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=3Dtop align=3Dmiddle width=3D"1%"><B=20
class=3Dnavheads>&#8226;</B></TD>
<TD class=3DnHeadline><A=20
href=3D"/news/nation/20010531/t000045513.html">Germany OK=
s Funds=20
for Nazi Slave Laborers</A></TD>
<TD class=3DnHeadline width=3D"1%">&nbsp;</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD align=3Dright colSpan=3D3><B class=3Dnavheads><A=20
href=3D"/news/nation/more.htm">MORE</A><IMG height=3D5=20
src=3D"/images/empty.gif" width=3D25></B></TD></TR></TBOD=
Y></TABLE></TD>
<TD align=3Dright width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#fff0c3><IMG height=3D1=
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src=3D"/images/empty.gif" width=3D5></TD></TR><!-- END HEADLINE=
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<TR>
<TD width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#ffdc77>&nbsp;</TD>
<TD bgColor=3D#ffdc77 colSpan=3D2>
<TABLE cellSpacing=3D0 cellPadding=3D3 width=3D"100%" border=3D=
0>
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<TR>
<TD class=3DnLevel2Section vAlign=3Dtop width=3D"30%"><A=20
href=3D"/wires/"><B>Breaking News</B></A><BR><A=20
href=3D"/news/nation/"><B>Nation &amp; World</B></A><BR><=
A=20
href=3D"/news/state/"><B>California</B></A><BR><A=20
href=3D"/news/politics/"><B>Politics</B></A><BR></TD>
<TD width=3D"5%"><IMG height=3D1 src=3D"/images/empty.gif"=
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width=3D8></TD>
<TD class=3DnLevel2Section vAlign=3Dtop width=3D"30%"><A=20
href=3D"/news/health/"><B>Health</B> </A><BR><A=20
href=3D"/news/highway1/"><B>Highway 1</B></A><BR><A=20
href=3D"/news/science/"><B>Science</B></A></TD>
<TD width=3D"5%"><IMG height=3D1 src=3D"/images/empty.gif"=
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width=3D8></TD>
<TD class=3DnLevel2Section vAlign=3Dtop width=3D"30%"><A=20
href=3D"/editions/orange/"><B>Orange County</B></A><BR><A=
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href=3D"/editions/valley/"><B>Valley</B></A><BR><A=20
href=3D"/editions/ventura/"><B>Ventura=20
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width=3D1></TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#aed4e9>&nbsp;</TD>
<TD vAlign=3Dtop bgColor=3D#aed4e9 colSpan=3D2><IMG height=3D5=20
src=3D"/images/empty.gif" width=3D5 align=3Dtop><BR><B=20
class=3DnClassifiedTitle><A href=3D"/class">Marketplace</A></B>=
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<A href=3D"/class/rental">rental</A>, <A href=3D"/class/employ"=
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an=20
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width=3D5></TD>
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width=3D1></TD></TR>
<TR>
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empty.gif"=20
width=3D1></TD>
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width=3D1></TD></TR><!-- Begin Subscription box -->
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src=3D"/images/empty.gif" width=3D5 align=3Dtop><BR><B=20
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ption=20
Services</A></B><SPAN class=3DnClassified>&nbsp;&nbsp; <A=20
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, <A=20
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<A=20
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width=3D1></TD></TR><!-- End Subscription box -->
<TR>
<TD width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#254970><IMG height=3D3 src=3D"/images=
/empty.gif"=20
width=3D3></TD>
<TD bgColor=3D#254970 colSpan=3D2><IMG height=3D3 src=3D"/images/=
empty.gif"=20
width=3D1></TD>
<TD width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#254970><IMG height=3D3 src=3D"/images=
/empty.gif"=20
width=3D1></TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#aed4e9>&nbsp;</TD>
<TD vAlign=3Dtop bgColor=3D#aed4e9 colSpan=3D2><IMG height=3D5=20
src=3D"/images/empty.gif" width=3D5 align=3Dtop><BR><B=20
class=3DnClassifiedTitle><A href=3D"/printtoweb/printads/">Prin=
t Ads=20
from the Newspaper</A></B> &nbsp;&nbsp;<SPAN class=3DnClassifie=
d>See=20
this week's ads</SPAN><BR><IMG height=3D5 src=3D"/images/empty.=
gif"=20
width=3D5></TD>
<TD width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#aed4e9><IMG height=3D1 src=3D"/images=
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<TR>
<TD width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#254970>&nbsp;</TD>
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<TD class=3DnSubSection vAlign=3Dtop width=3D"30%"><A=20
href=3D"<http://www.calendarlive.com/top/1,1419,L-LATimes-=>
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h/"><FONT=20
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1</FONT></A><BR><A href=3D"/extras/horoscope/"><FONT=20
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href=3D"/extras/lottery/"><FONT=20
color=3D#ffffff>Lottery</FONT></A><BR><A=20
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color=3D#ffffff>Religion</FONT></A><BR><A=20
href=3D"/news/science/science/"><FONT=20
color=3D#ffffff>Science</FONT></A><BR><A href=3D"/living/=
"><FONT=20
color=3D#ffffff>So.Cal. Living</FONT></A><BR></TD>
<TD width=3D"5%">&nbsp;</TD>
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href=3D"/business/cutting/ttimes/"><FONT color=3D#ffffff>=
Tech=20
Times</FONT></A><BR><A href=3D"/news/timespoll/"><FONT=20
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<TR vAlign=3Dtop>
<TD vAlign=3Dtop width=3D"100%" colSpan=3D5><BR><A=20
href=3D"[http://www.ktla.com"](<http://www.ktla.com"/>);><IMG height=3D47 alt=3D""=20
src=3D"/images/home/ktla_trans.gif" width=3D78=20
border=3D0></A><BR></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><IMG height=3D10=
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<TD width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#254970><IMG height=3D5 src=3D"/images=
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<TR>
<TD width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#ffc501>&nbsp;</TD>
<TD class=3DnMarketplace vAlign=3Dbottom align=3Dleft bgColor=3D#=
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colSpan=3D2>SHOP 'TIL YOUR LAPTOP DROPS</TD>
<TD width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#ffc501><IMG height=3D3 src=3D"/images=
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<TR>
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<TD width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#ff0000><IMG height=3D2 src=3D"/images=
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width=3D5></TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#ffc501>&nbsp;</TD>
<TD vAlign=3Dtop align=3Dleft bgColor=3D#ffc501 rowSpan=3D2><A=20
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<TD class=3DnHeadline vAlign=3Dtop bgColor=3D#ffc501 rowSpan=3D2>
<FORM=20
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<TD width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#ffc501><IMG height=3D3 src=3D"/images=
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width=3D5></TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#ffc501>&nbsp;</TD>
<TD width=3D"1%" bgColor=3D#ffc501><IMG height=3D3 src=3D"/images=
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<DIV class=3DcTimestamp align=3Dright><IMG height=3D3 src=3D"/images/=
empty.gif"=20
width=3D1><BR>Friday, June 1, 2001 | <A href=3D"/cgi-bin/print.cgi"><=
IMG=20
height=3D16 src=3D"/images/printer_icon.gif" align=3DabsMiddle border=
=3D0 dth=3D"20"=20
wi> <B>Print this story</B></A> <IMG height=3D1 src=3D"/images/empty.=
gif"=20
width=3D4></DIV><IMG height=3D10 src=3D"/images/empty.gif" width=3D33=
5><BR><!-- END TIMESTAMP --><!-- BEGIN RIGHT MAIN --><!-- START MAIN HED --=
>
<P><SPAN class=3DcHeadline1><B>The Tale of Taiwan&#8217;s Aborigines=
=20
<BR></B></SPAN><!-- END MAIN HED --><!-- START KEYDECK --><IMG height=
=3D6=20
alt=3D"" hspace=3D3 src=3D"/images/blackpix.gif" width=3D6 vspace=3D2=
> A court=20
ruling and a new government have given hope to the island&#8217;s dis=
possessed=20
natives. <BR></SPAN><!-- END KEYDECK --><!-- START BYLINE -->
<P><SPAN class=3Dcauthor>By HENRY CHU, Times Staff Writer<BR></SPAN>
<P><!-- END BYLINE --><SPAN class=3DcontentFirst><!--BEGIN STORY--><!=
-- story begins -->&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;HUALIEN,=20
Taiwan--A noisy cement factory sits on the land where Tien Min-jen gr=
ew=20
up. He can see its towering bulk from where he lives now, and in its=
=20
nonstop whir he hears the rumble of=20
injustice.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;For millenniums, the area=
has=20
been home to Tien&#8217;s ancestors, members of the aboriginal Taroko=
tribe on=20
Taiwan&#8217;s verdant eastern coast. They raised their crops and the=
ir children=20
and put down roots here long before Chinese settlers first arrived 40=
0=20
years ago.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;But Chinese expansion, at=
=20
times brutally violent, crowded out indigenous people such as Tien.=20
Assimilation wiped out whole tribes. In 1949, Chiang Kai-shek arrived=
=20
after losing to Mao Tse-tung&#8217;s Communists on the mainland and s=
oon=20
nationalized the land in hopes of turning Taiwan into an industrial p=
ower=20
base from which to retake China. Thousands of natives were=20
dispossessed.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&#8216;The government =
took the=20
land for their own use and treated us like we were guests,&#8216; Tie=
n said, his=20
deeply tanned face creasing with anger. &#8216;We were born and bred =
on this=20
land. It ought to be mine again.&#8216;<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;That=20
may yet happen. In an unprecedented decision last summer, a Taiwanese=
=20
court ruled that the property taken by the government and given to th=
e=20
Asia Cement Co. rightfully belongs to Tien, 48, and other=20
Tarokos.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;It was a major victory for =
the=20
island&#8217;s aboriginal population after decades of suppression, ne=
glect and=20
forced assimilation by the dominant ethnic Chinese society. In anothe=
r=20
promising development, moves by Taiwan&#8217;s new government have ra=
ised hopes=20
that aborigines will be granted more=20
autonomy.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Even as the world lavishes=
=20
praise on Taiwan&#8217;s transformation from a single-party police st=
ate to a=20
vibrant democracy, activists such as Tien hope to expose one of the d=
arker=20
sides of the island&#8217;s past: the shameful treatment of its nativ=
e=20
inhabitants.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Few aborigines remain t=
o=20
tell the tale--only about 390,000 members of nine tribes, or less tha=
n 2%=20
of Taiwan&#8217;s population of 23=20
million.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Unemployment and poor healt=
h=20
plague aboriginal communities. Mother tongues are dying out. Time is =
short=20
for the elderly, who maintain the strongest ties to their traditional=
=20
lands and cultures despite the Chinese identities the government impo=
sed=20
on them and their offspring.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Yet=20
activists draw inspiration from the struggles of indigenous groups ar=
ound=20
the world, from Native Americans in the U.S. to the Maoris of New Zea=
land.=20
The feeling of kinship may go beyond the metaphorical: Some=20
anthropologists believe that the Maoris and other South Pacific islan=
ders,=20
including the Polynesians in Hawaii, are descended from Taiwan&#8217;=
s=20
aborigines.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;One of the aborigines&#8=
217;=20
biggest international boosts occurred in the U.S. in 1996, when a=20
traditional song of this island&#8217;s Ami tribe was used to promote=
the Summer=20
Olympics in Atlanta--a swooping, echoing melody that sounds like a ca=
ll=20
from the mountainside.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;All of Taiwan=
&#8217;s=20
nine recognized tribes are in fact mountain dwellers. Their=20
inaccessibility in the rugged hills of central and eastern Taiwan hel=
ped=20
them survive when the indigenous peoples on the plains did not. All 1=
0=20
plains tribes are virtually extinct through displacement and intermar=
riage=20
with the Chinese.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The mountain clans=
want=20
to stave off that fate and are resorting to the tools of Taiwan&#8217=
;s=20
fast-developing civil society to do=20
so.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The lifting of martial law in 19=
87=20
opened the door to a vast array of interest groups in Taiwan, from=20
environmentalists to gay-rights advocates, who suddenly found that th=
ey=20
could organize and agitate without being arrested and hauled off to=20
jail.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Among aborigines, ethnic pride=
=20
began to assert itself. For decades, they had been taught to consider=
=20
themselves Chinese, in line with Chiang&#8217;s vision of Taiwan as a=
part of=20
China; Chiang&#8217;s ruling Nationalists called the &#8216;mountain =
people&#8216; their=20
comrades in arms.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The assimilation e=
roded=20
many of the practices that had made indigenous cultures distinctive, =
from=20
native dress to language. Many aborigines today are hardly distinguis=
hable=20
from ethnic, or Han, Chinese, except for darker complexions and diffe=
rent=20
facial features in some cases. The gap between indigenous and Chinese=
=20
cultures has narrowed over four centuries of Chinese=20
settlement.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Under martial law, Manda=
rin=20
Chinese was Taiwan&#8217;s official language; anyone caught speaking =
in an=20
indigenous tongue or the local Taiwanese dialect was punished. Aborig=
ines=20
were forced to adopt Chinese names, a policy that many found=20
humiliating.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Isak Afo reclaimed his =
birth=20
name in 1994 and erased the Chinese impostor, Lin Shien-fong, from al=
l his=20
legal papers.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&#8216;My parents gave=
me this=20
name, which shows my roots. It&#8217;s an important cultural and pers=
onal=20
symbol,&#8216; said Afo, a member of the Ami tribe, Taiwan&#8217;s mo=
st populous,=20
known for its matriarchal social structure and rich store of native=20
songs.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Afo was among the first activ=
ists=20
to coalesce around a common rallying cry in the late 1980s: &#8216;Re=
turn our=20
land.&#8216; In 1988, indigenous groups marched on Taipei, the capita=
l,=20
demanding that the Nationalist government give back the land it had=20
expropriated. Several more protests attracted thousands of=20
demonstrators.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&#8216;For aborigines=
, the land=20
is life,&#8216; Afo declared. &#8216;It&#8217;s a common grievance pe=
ople can unite=20
under.&#8216;<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;In 1996, the governmen=
t set up a=20
Council of Aboriginal Affairs, which reports directly to Taiwan&#8217=
;s=20
president. The constitution now guarantees eight seats in the 280-mem=
ber=20
Legislative Yuan, or parliament, to aboriginal representatives to fig=
ht=20
for their interests.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;But real progre=
ss on=20
the problems affecting native people has been hard to come=20
by.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Despite greater visibility of=20
aborigines and even a brief wave of &#8216;aboriginal chic&#8216; spa=
rked by pop=20
singers such as A-Mei, a sultry tribal princess whose concerts draw h=
uge=20
crowds, public opinion toward native people is often highly=20
prejudiced.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Media outlets paint=20
unflattering portraits of indigenous residents, with exaggerated acco=
unts=20
of alcoholism, criminality and child=20
prostitution.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Activists, who acknowl=
edge=20
that such problems exist, say the sensationalist coverage masks their=
=20
underlying causes. Unemployment among aborigines, at 8%, is twice the=
=20
national average. Jobs, when they can be found, are often among the l=
east=20
desirable and most dangerous, such as construction work. Less than 10=
% of=20
aborigines have a college degree, compared with 34% of the general=20
population.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&#8216;The government sa=
ys that the=20
Republic of China [Taiwan] is one nation. But this does no good for=20
aborigines because there&#8217;s no justice and much poverty,&#8216; =
said Payen Talu,=20
an aboriginal legislator. &#8216;There&#8217;s a lot of discriminatio=
n, similar to the=20
way whites treat blacks in the United=20
States.&#8216;<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Political power remai=
ns a=20
phantom. &#8216;Our voters aren&#8217;t really a threat and can&#8217=
;t make much of an=20
impact,&#8216; said Talu, whose cramped office is adorned with poster=
s of=20
elderly members of his tribe, the Atayal, sporting their distinctive=
=20
facial tattoos.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Yet some of the blam=
e for=20
lack of progress lies closer to home, activists=20
admit.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Factionalism has divided the=
=20
tribes, with no single charismatic leader who has emerged to unite=20
everyone. One activist recalls walking out of a meeting after partici=
pants=20
spent an hour arguing over a motto for the group rather than discussi=
ng=20
anything substantive.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tribal differe=
nces=20
are exacerbated at times by religious ones. Denominational conflicts =
have=20
hampered efforts to keep a panaboriginal movement going among the=20
indigenous, about 75% of whom are Christian, the result of missionary=
=20
activity.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&#8216;If in 15 years we d=
on&#8217;t get=20
together, entire tribes are going to perish,&#8216; Talu warned. &#82=
16;The sun will=20
set on us.&#8216;<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Recent events have=
shone a=20
few rays of hope.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;A historic shift i=
n=20
Taiwan&#8217;s government last year has put in place some top leaders=
regarded=20
as more responsive to local concerns. The Democratic Progressive Part=
y of=20
President Chen Shui-bian was born on Taiwanese soil, unlike the=20
long-ruling Nationalist Party, which was founded on mainland=20
China.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;As a presidential candidate, =
Chen=20
was the only one to sign a &#8216;treaty of peace and equality&#8216;=
with the nine=20
tribes, promising to recognize their sovereignty, restore traditional=
=20
homelands and reinstate the indigenous names of mountains, rivers and=
=20
other natural landmarks.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&#8216;Over=
the last=20
400 years, [aborigines] have experienced mistreatment and oppression =
at=20
the hands of colonial regimes,&#8216; the compact said. &#8216;But su=
ccessive colonial=20
rulers have yet to issue any form of apology or implement any measure=
of=20
redress for the errors they=20
committed.&#8216;<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The government is =
set to=20
launch an experiment in granting more autonomy to aboriginal communit=
ies,=20
starting with the Yami people, a community of seafaring, expert fishe=
rs on=20
Orchid island, a tiny dot on the map off Taiwan&#8217;s southeastern=
=20
coast.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Although details are still to=
be=20
settled--with the help of experts from such countries as New Zealand =
and=20
Canada, which have worked out their own legal arrangements with indig=
enous=20
peoples--activists envision a self-contained area responsible for its=
own=20
taxation, education and some social welfare=20
programs.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;This would make it easier =
to=20
preserve native customs such as the coming-of-age rites of the Puyuma=
, the=20
harvest prayers of the Bunun (sung in eight-part harmony), the colorf=
ul=20
leather clothing of the Tsou and the delicate stone- and wood-carving=
of=20
the Paiwan. <BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Above all, greater auto=
nomy=20
for aborigines could help preserve indigenous languages, which are in=
=20
danger of disappearing within a few generations. Fewer than half the=
=20
people in each tribe can speak their mother tongue. Among the young, =
many=20
of whom leave for the cities in search of work and better opportuniti=
es,=20
the proportion is even lower.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&#8216=
;This is a=20
very perilous situation,&#8216; said Isqaqavut Yohani, the head of th=
e=20
Cabinet-level Council of Aboriginal Affairs and a member of the Bunun=
=20
tribe. &#8216;When you lose your mother tongue, you lose your culture=
. I like to=20
say that your mother language is your ID card. If you say you&#8217;r=
e an=20
aborigine but can&#8217;t speak a word of the language, I won&#8217;t=
believe=20
you.&#8216;<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;His office is working wi=
th tribal=20
elders to determine the boundaries of their traditional lands. Estima=
tes=20
of the total area involved vary wildly, from 640,000 to 4.2 million a=
cres.=20
And drawing borders is not the only=20
question.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&#8216;Say the aboriginal =
people=20
occupied the central part of Taiwan,&#8216; Yohani said. &#8216;All o=
f Taiwan&#8217;s water=20
resources come from this area. Will the government allow aborigines t=
o=20
control all the water resources? And the forests and=20
mines?&#8216;<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Getting current occupa=
nts to=20
relinquish the land is another=20
headache.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Here in Hualien, despite t=
he=20
court ruling awarding land rights to the Taroko--a subgroup of the=20
Atayal--the Asia Cement Co. refuses to move, insisting on further=20
negotiations with the tribe and the government, which are in the work=
s.=20
The company maintains that the Tarokos gave up their rights to the=20
property and that it has the documents to prove=20
it.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;But Taroko activist Tien Chun-ch=
ou=20
says the documents are forgeries.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ti=
en,=20
58, is Hualien&#8217;s answer to Erin Brockovich. A beautician-turned=
-legal=20
crusader, Tien doggedly combed dusty archives and ignored threats of =
harm=20
in her campaign against big business.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;She=20
got a lucky break one day when Asia Cement executives stormed out of =
a=20
meeting, leaving behind a stack of=20
papers.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;As Tien started flipping thr=
ough=20
them, she discovered that they were the documents allegedly ceding th=
e=20
land to Asia Cement--and that they were riddled with=20
irregularities.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Some were missing=20
official seals. Others lacked dates. Even more fishy, the signatures =
of=20
many former landowners who supposedly gave up their property were all=
in=20
the same handwriting.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tien (no relat=
ion=20
to Tien Min-jen) went back and pulled the agreements, one by one, fro=
m the=20
files of the local government office. She took them to the alleged=20
signatories and asked if they had signed. The answer was always the s=
ame:=20
no.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;It took a year of digging, but h=
er=20
effort paid off with last summer&#8217;s court=20
order.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&#8216;I want the land of my =
forebears,&#8216;=20
Tien said. &#8216;That land is full of emotion. When I touch it, I ca=
n feel my=20
ancestors&#8217; presence.&#8216;<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bu=
t it&#8217;s a=20
frustrating wait for the judge&#8217;s decision to come to fruition. =
Two months=20
ago, a protest against the company turned violent when fed-up Taroko=
=20
farmers broke through barriers and scuffled with company employees in=
an=20
attempt to plant seedlings on the disputed=20
land.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The protesters included elderl=
y=20
aborigines who eagerly want to return to their=20
roots.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&#8216;Whenever I run into el=
derly=20
aborigines, they ask, &#8217;When will I get my land back?&#8217; and=
my heart=20
breaks,&#8216; Tien said sadly. &#8216;I can&#8217;t say when they&#8=
217;ll get it. A lot of old=20
folks I know have died. But I think they&#8217;re still helping me fr=
om heaven.=20
I believe that.&#8216;<BR><!-- END STORY --></SPAN><!-- END RIGHT MAI=
N -->
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